Bali Must See Spots: Temples, Monkeys, and Coffee
Pura Lempuyang
Getting There Early
We started our morning at the ridiculous hour of 2:30am to arrive at Pura Lempuyang at 5am on the dot. Pura Lempuyang is located in Karangasem Regency on the north east of the island, and is one of Bali’s must see tourist spots. It’s not hard to see why, as it’s one of the highest temples in Bali. Housed at this Hindu Temple are the Gates of Heaven, two iconic stone structures that frame Mount Agung perfectly. This is often called one of the spots you must see in Bali. If you’ve seen pictures of Bali, you’ve almost definitely seen Pura Lempuyang.
We decided to go early so we can take pictures quickly and not have to be caught in the crowd. But as we arrived, we weren’t the only ones with that idea. This place operates like a well oiled machine with a virtual queue, and we ended up being the 57th group despite arriving before opening. In all our travels, I have never seen so many people up that early to visit a temple. We paid 150,000 IDR (9 USD) per person for the entrance fee and shuttle bus to the top of the mountain.
At the Temple
As it is a religious site, we need to be covered, so I prepared my shawl and you have to wear a sarong which can be provided. The staff didn’t start taking pictures until 6 a.m. so including the time we arrived we were waiting about 2 hours. By the time we left the crowd swelled even more, and we could have been waiting for 3 to 4 hours.
While we were waiting we decided to take pictures on our own at staircase across the gates. There are 3 staircases so we choose the line that was the shortest. Up here there is always a guaranteed line for everything. When the staff finally called our number we were overjoyed. I handed them my phone, and Michael and I took photos together and individually. The photos are so iconic because they put a handheld mirror at the bottom your phone so it looks reflective. If you thought there was a beautiful reflection pool, sadly that’s not the case.
The sun was going in and out that day so we were hoping that we would get lucky and you could see the mountain in the background. Our luck drew short and it was cloudy but it was okay. It was definitely an experience to remember, and thankfully we would redeem ourselves very soon. While the temple is cool, there are definitely other temples in Bali that are better for visiting, and it’s clear people are mostly here for the picture. Just outside the temple is a bunch of restaurants, cafes, and other activities with great views, so if you know you’ll be waiting a while you can enjoy the mountain in comfort.
Lahangan Sweet
Just a bit away on the same mountain is Lahangan Sweet. It is just a 15-minute drive from the temple, so it was quite easy to get to. The roads leading to Lahangan Sweet are very steep and in bad condition, so they will likely make you take the shuttle. Even if you manage to drive up, you can’t go all the way as the roads turn to dirt. They offer an offroad jeep for 50,000 IDR (about 3 USD) roundtrip, or you can hike the rest yourself. Since we were really tired from the early morning, we wanted to save our energy and chose the jeep. I was shocked at how few people were there, I really preferred it over the Gates of Heaven. If you’re not looking to wait for hours, this is the place to go instead.
After paying the entry fee of 50,000 IDR (3 USD) to enter Lahangan Sweet, we walked along the ridge and were struck with the beautiful of Bali. This was the first time Bali felt like everything I had imaged it would be. The ridge overlooks the same view of Mount Agung, but with no buildings and less clouds. Because of the position on the mountain, it was much less obscured. It was a picturesque moment, and we had most of the area to ourselves. We headed toward the tree ladders to get a better view, and luckily the sky had fully cleared up.
Near the tree house, there is an employee who takes photos for a small tip. These are still some of my favorite pictures we have ever taken on a trip. He helped us pose and took amazing shots that reminded us how magical the moment was. It felt incredible to be high up in the tree with the wind blowing and a stillness all around us. Up there, the air felt so fresh and unreal view made it by far our favorite place in Bali. We could have spent hours there.
A short walk from the tree house there are also some gates. These look a bit more touristy since they are brightly painted and very new, but we still got our reflective mirror picture with the mountain in the background, and we only had to wait a few minutes. After a frustratingly long wait for a mid-view at Pura Lempuyang, we were surprised how much we loved it.
Watercress Ubud
After seeing some amazing sites we headed back to Ubud to eat at Watercress Ubud. This restaurant works with local farms to source high quality ingredients for their food. What really drew me to the restaurant was the decoration and layout. It felt like a tree house because of how much outdoor space there was. I ordered one of my favorite things to eat, the acai smoothie bowl. It was so aesthetically pleasing to look at all the fruit that was placed in my bowl. Michael was in a more savory mood that day so he got the local chorizo breakfast bowl.
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
Another Bali must see spots is The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is the main attraction in Ubud, near the main street Jalan Raya Ubud. It is a nature preserve that is home to over 1,200 long-tailed macaques. We have encountered long-tailed macaques in Southeast Asia before and learned the basic do’s and don’ts when it comes to monkeys. The rules are pretty much the same wherever you go. These guys are used to humans, love to steal, and don’t play nice so keep your guard up.
The sanctuary spans about 31 acres, giving the monkeys plenty of space to roam. They are in their natural habitat, and the entire space is designed for their comfort and enjoyment. At the entrance, they clearly state not to bring food, drinks, vapes, or wear small jewelry. The monkeys can and will try to steal those items. While we were there we saw one steal a vape our of a backpack and hit it, grab a bag of fruit, and take someone’s water bottle. You should also avoid looking them in the eye or smiling at them, since showing your teeth is seen as a sign of aggression.
We really enjoyed walking through the sanctuary and taking in the winding paths, tall trees, and monkeys from a respectful distance. The property was larger than we expected, and the monkeys are free to come and go as they please. It truly felt like being in the jungle, with massive trees, draping vines, and monkeys all around. There are so many baby monkeys and they are so cute but usually they stick near their parents just like us humans do. It was a very cool experience, but it is important to follow the rules and give the monkeys their space.
Bali Pulina Coffee Plantation
Kopi Luwak
One of Michael’s most favorite things in the world is specialty coffee. We had never been to a coffee plantation together before, but since Indonesia grows a lot of coffee beans, we had to take advantage of the opportunity. We decided to visit Bali Pulina Coffee Plantation because of their ethical repuation. Through their website, we booked the coffee experience, which cost 250,000 IDR (about $15 USD) per person.
When we arrived, a private guide showed us around the plantation. We got to see coffee trees, vanilla beans, cinnamon bark, and other ingredients that are used in their drinks. Bali Pulina also serves Luwak coffee, one of the most expensive coffees in the world. It’s made when a civet eats coffee cherries and digests them. The beans remain intact through digestion and are collected, rinsed, and processed. Luwak coffee is very controversial, especially in the specialty coffee world. Coffee cherries aren’t a large part of a civets diet, and mass produced Luwak requires force feeding civets in cramped cages.
Bali Pulina exclusively sources their Luwak coffee from the wild rather than force-feeding civets. They do have civets at the plantation, but only for breeding purposes. Once they bred, they’re released back into the wild near their plantations. The civets naturally eat cherries off the trees and other foraged items, and the excrement is picked up later.
Coffee Experience
During the tour, we learned about the roasting process and got to experience traditional Balinese roasting, where beans are roasted over an open flame. These days, though, they also use modern machines for roasting. Traditionally Balinese coffee is very dark, so it wasn’t Michael’s favorite, but the experience was very fun. Learning about the roast, the ingredients, and the overall process took about an hour.
Next came the tasting, which was included in the tour. We got to try five teas, five mixed coffees, and four black coffees, along with some snacks. We had never experienced a tasting like that before. Toward the end, the barista demonstrated how to make a pour-over using Luwak coffee. After she brewed a cup, we each got the chance to make our own. Michael was more than excited to try it himself because he used to be a barista, so it brought back a lot of good memories. We left feeling full and highly caffeinated, but more than that, we really got to taste and experience the beans of Bali.
Final Thoughts
This ended up being one of our favorite days in Bali. Even with the early start and all the waiting, everything we did made it totally worth it. Every stop had something special, and we got to see so many sides of the island in just one day. It was the kind of day that made the whole trip feel extra special.
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