Belgium’s Best Spots: Brussels and Antwerp
MOK Coffee
We started our journey off at MOK Coffee. This is a quaint specialty shop and roastery in the heart of Brussels. We knew the coffee would be good as soon as we walked in and smelled freshly roasted beans wafting through the air. The atmosphere here is great, it is a standard high-ceiling industrial vibe with concrete counters. But what’s really nice is the espresso machine is right at the bar, meaning you can sit directly next to them as they make your pour over or espresso.
Michaels Thoughts:
Michael’s thoughts: I got a v60 and it was great, one of the best I had in Europe. You can tell all the baristas know what they are doing. But the best part was definitely the seating arrangements, it’s not often you can comfortably sit down and talk to the barista making your drink and talk about coffee.
At the end, a customer came up to the counter and started talking trash to the employees. It was a little unclear what the argument was about, but he was definitely not happy. Eventually, one of the baristas disappeared to the back kitchen and returned with the chef who was a large man at least 6’3”, and that scared the guy off. It was an interesting introduction into Belgium to say the least.
Atomium
The main architectural attraction of Brussels has to be the Atomium. This massive 100m (350’) tall structure is one of the tallest things in Belgium. It was constructed for the 1958 Brussels World’s Fair, known as Expo 58. World fairs seem like a quaint relic of Victorian culture, but at the time this would have been the most important event in the world. It was the first World Fair held after World War Two and had an atmosphere of mid-century futurism and hopeful optimism.
The Atomium stands alone in the center of the expo complex and is a truly unique building. I was not impressed when I planned this trip, but seeing it in person I was proven wrong. It feels truly massive and it’s such an odd shape to see, it’s hard to describe without visiting in person.
Inside the Atomium
You may be as surprised as I was that you can go inside it. In fact, there are rooms in each ball of the Atomium, with an elevator going directly to the top ball, and escalators connecting the rest. The tickets were about 20 USD, and I was skeptical if it would be worth it but I’m glad we did. We started by taking the high-speed elevator to the ball in the center. There are not many large buildings in Brussels, and the view from the top is not overly interesting, however, it is a very clear view because it’s the largest building around. Seeing the expo center from the sky was a wild experience, imagining people bustling all around 70 years ago.
The rest of the exhibit is accessible by escalator and each ball has a different theme. The first ball shows the history of the Expo and the Atomium, showing images during the event. Many of the buildings are still standing today which is trippy to see. The last of the rooms is an exhibit dedicated to showing what happens to the massive structures at world fairs and Olympic events after they are over. Often these large venues require costly demolitions and only get used for a month, calling into question if they are worth it.
The rest of the interior was our favorite part. Several of the balls are dedicated to permanent and temporary audio/visual exhibitions. LED lights are arranged in interesting configurations that glow and dance to flowing music. It reminded us of the teamLabs experiences in Osaka and Toyko. Some of the installations change every few years, and some are permanent. You can find the current and former installations here. I felt sucked in, and it made me feel introspective.
Grand Palace
In the center of the city is the Grand Palace. This large plaza is the hub for every major tourist attraction in Brussels. On one side is the town hall, an opulent and towering building with intricate stonework. The surrounding buildings are all similarly decorated with gold gilding and detailed carvings. The square has many shops and tourist attractions aside from taking pictures. Many events are held here year-round, so check before you come so you aren’t surprised. When we arrived there was an interesting event with a lady hoisted on a crane above a large crowd in the largest dress imaginable singing opera—a truly unique experience for sure.
Walking away from the Grand Palace reveals walking streets in every direction full of shops of every kind. Chocolatiers, bakeries, cafes, souvenirs and more. It is certainly a tourist attraction, but the streets are very nice and incredibly lively. Europe is experiencing over-tourism, which we did not fully appreciate until we came across some graffiti on a wall saying “tourist go home”. While we did not go home, it was a great reminder to be a responsible tourist and always be respectful of the country you’re in.
Manneken Pis
Manneken Pis is a small fountain of a boy peeing in a small square near the Grand Palace. This is easily one of the most famous statues in the world, and we have seen replicas as far as South Korea. The statue is from 1619 created by Jerôme Duquesnoy, and is much loved and often decorated with handmade clothing depending on the season or holiday. When we visited it was wearing a normal outfit, but it has over 1000 fits to choose from.
To be honest, I’m not sure I understand the hype. However I am very happy for locals to have an exciting and iconic symbol to latch on to. The statue is small and is not in any particularly grand or prominent place. Of course, there is a lot to be said about the artistic and cultural importance of the statue, but as a pure tourist attraction, given the crowds and relative simplicity, it was not my favorite thing in Brussels. That being said it’s so close to so many other attractions that you might as well have a look.
Waffle Factory
When you think of Belgium you think of two things: waffles and chocolate. Well, we weren’t able to find a boutique wafflery, if they even exist. However many people recommended Waffle Factory as the go-to stop for good waffles near the Grand Palace. They have every kind of waffle you can imagine, from breakfast, lunch, and so much more. There are many locations all over Belgium and France, but it all started here in Belgium.
We got a sweet waffle with Belgian dark chocolate of course. Even though it’s technically fast food, we thought it was really great. It was made with a yeasty dough like a doughnut, rather than a thin waffle batter like in the States. The waffle was chewy, savory, and sweet, in all the right ways.
Fritland
We usually associate fried food with America. Although potato chips are an American delicacy, French fries probably originated in Belgium in the 17th century. So really, eating a massive cone of greasy fries and sauce is as authentic Belgian cuisine as you can get! This is a very popular snack in the area and they offer tons of different sauces. The servings are massive so be sure to get a reasonable amount.
The fries were pretty great, but nothing incredible. In Amsterdam we got fries that we really thought were special, so if for some reason you’re choosing a city to visit based on fry quality that’s our pick. Regardless, Fritland is located right in the Grand Palace with a large outdoor patio making it a nice place to take a break.
Neuhaus
Now on to chocolates. There are many famous chocolatiers in Belgium, but we only had one day so we had to pick wisely. Our first stop was Neuhaus. This is a celebrated Belgian chocolatier since the 1800’s. Neuhaus claims to be the inventor of the praline (or bonbon) which is a chocolate with a hard outer shell and gooey center. We’ve seen debate on if they truly made the first praline, but they certainly perfected and popularized it.
As soon as we walked in we were blown away. The overwhelming sweetness filled the room and we were impressed with the variety of chocolates. A lady came up to us and was very helpful in identifying chocolates we would be interested in and gave lots of recommendations. In the end, we got about 8 chocolates, and to be honest, they were all incredible. The fillings were perfect and the chocolate was obviously high quality. I’m sure the chocolate-heads are screaming that we didn’t go to a super boutique hidden shop somewhere else, but America isn’t known for amazing chocolate and this surpassed every possible expectation.
Godiva
Back at the Grand Palace, we headed into Godiva. This is the most popular chocolate brand from Belgium and you’ve certainly had some in the past. The experience here was very similar, with amazingly sweet air and friendly staff. We got another round of chocolate, although we noticed the offerings here were more laid back. At this point, we had eaten 8 chocolates, a waffle, and a large fry so our stomachs were really not feeling it. We pushed through and really enjoyed the Godiva chocolates.
It’s hard to say if we would have liked it more on an empty stomach, but we both slightly preferred Neuhaus. While the chocolate itself at Godiva had a great taste, Neuhaus offered more variety and the depth of flavor was more intense. Regardless, we recommend you stop by both if you can.
St. Michael & St. Gudula Cathedral
To end the day we walked towards St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral. We had never heard of St. Gudula, but she is one of the patron saints of Brussels and was historically born in what is now Belgium in the 600s. We visited many cathedrals on our trip to Europe, and they often blended together. This one however really stuck out. The exterior is very boxy and imposing, and the gothic facade is dripping with decorative carvings. The vaults inside felt immense and the cathedral has some of the most impressive stained glass we had seen.
Antwerp
Because we had leftover time in our schedule, we decided to visit the second largest city (by metro area) in Belgium, Antwerp. Antwerp has been historically known for having a huge part in the world’s diamond trade. The city has long been a center of cultural trade, and some of the most famous painters and sculptors in the world have called Antwerp home.
Kolonel Coffee
Before we could start with the history of the city, we had to get great coffee as always. Kolonel is yet another great shop and roastery with several locations in Antwerp, but we chose the south location. Yemisi got a juice and I got a pour-over. It was super solid. Perhaps not quite as amazing as Brussels, but well worth the stop.
Kolonel also serves up food which looked very tempting but we weren’t that hungry. The best part was the massive amount of seating and work area. This cafe is clearly geared towards students, remote workers, or anyone else who needs a few hours at a cafe. The vibes were super chill, and the decoration was exceedingly cozy with lots of natural light and plants.
Het Steen
Our first stop was Het Steen. This is a castle on the riverfront built around 1200 A.D. It is one of the oldest buildings in the city and doubles as a tourist information center as well as a museum. When we arrived the museum was closed, but we did get some interesting info on where to visit next. The castle itself is very interesting, it seems so out of place among the modern buildings along the river, almost like a castle at Disney World.
The construction is impressive, and you can even go to the top for a nice view of the river and the city. There are also several important statues in and around the castle. Antwerp is known for its many statues, several of which are attached to buildings opposite the castle, so if you’re planning an art trip to the city this area is worth it.
Museum De Reede
Antwerp is home to many amazing museums featuring the country’s long history of influential artists. We only had time for one stop, and as we were nearing the end of our trip we wanted a different experience than the classical and renaissance art we had been seeing. Museum De Reede is a different sort of museum, focusing on graphic works, woodblock prints, etchings, and lithographs. There are several very important artists on display here like Francisco Goya, Félicien Rops, and most famously Edvard Munch. Their prized piece is an original black and white lithograph print of Munch’s “The Scream”. However, the entire museum is absolutely full of incredible pieces from many artists.
If you know about these artists, you’ll recognize that many of them deal with subversive and dark themes. Rops in particular has a lot of pieces on display that deal with death or sadness, with nude women, grotesque forms, and odd and unsettling environments. We really enjoyed these exhibits as a breath of fresh air after two weeks of Renaissance paintings. Of course, there is a lot to love about art in Europe, but this museum was definitely more our speed.
Cathedral of Our Lady
Our very last stop in Belgium was the Cathedral of Our Lady. This ancient cathedral was built over a long period from 1352-1521 and features the tallest church tower in the country. The style of this cathedral’s exterior is notably different than the one in Brussels, with many buttresses and pinnacles climbing up the tower, as well as a large clock face. While the exterior is very nice, the interior is where this cathedral comes alive.
The most important part of the building is the paintings within. Many of the paintings were painted by or overseen by Peter Paul Rubens, one of the greatest master painters of the Baroque period. The cathedral features “Assumption of the Virgin Mary” and “Descent from the Cross”, one of which was surely in your grade school art history textbook. Seeing these incredible paintings in real life is a truly strange experience. Unlike the Mona Lisa in Paris, these paintings are vast in scale, up to 15 feet in height. Even if you aren’t an art history person, there’s something incredible on display here. To get inside this cathedral you must pay a relatively large fee, but if you’re interested in architecture, art history, or religion it’s worth it.
Final Thoughts
Belgium is not the most popular tourist destination in Europe. However, if you have time we definitely recommend taking a few days to explore this lovely country. From chocolate to architecture, you won’t be let down by Belgium. Hopefully we helped you get inspired to explore Brussels and Antwerp.
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