Exploring El Nido: A Paradise Awaits
Palawan Island
Choosing Palawan
After researching islands in the Philippines, we decided to visit Palawan. This province is the largest in the Philippines by land area, but also one of most remote. The main island of Palawan is long and thin, stretching from near the tip of the island of Borneo in Malaysia and Brunei, all the way to Coron Island near Manila. I read that Palawan has beautiful water, massive lagoons, and unbelievable mountains. Yes, I know it’s a bit touristy but what are we if not tourists?
There are three main areas when visiting Palawan which are Puerto Princesa, El Nido, and Coron. I chose El Nido because it was highly recommended. Puerto Princesa is the largest city and easiest to access on the island. It also has many amazing nature areas, but we were more drawn to El Nido. El Nido is also known for island hopping boat tours and world famous lagoons, which I wanted to experience.
TIP: If you’re visiting El Nido and have a bit extra in your budget I highly recommend flying to El Nido instead of Puerto Princesa. You could rent a car or take the bus from Puerto Princesa, but it could take 5-9 hours to drive. If you want a hassle-free vacation it’s best to fly into El Nido’s Airport from Manila or Cebu, although the airport is small and a little more expensive.
Navigating Palawan
The area is quite small, and while you will see a few cars, there are no taxis, public transportation, or ride hailing apps. So how do you get around? Motorcycles, specifically trikes. These are motorcycles with welded frames attached giving them space for 2 passengers. From the airport to town is about 300 pesos (5 USD) and around town is between 100-200 pesos (1.75-3.50 USD).
TIP: Trikes constantly roam the streets for customers and gather near beaches and tourist spots. You won’t have trouble finding one, they’ll find you! If you prefer walking, downtown is just a few minutes walk on foot, and most resorts are within a 30-minute to 1-hour walk.
Paying in El Nido
El Nido is very small, and the vast majority of businesses are cash only. Do not anticipate paying by card or transfer on your visit. Additionally, ATM service is spotty. Due to the towns isolation and high tourism, ATM’s will sometimes be out of cash, and do not get refilled regularly. We almost missed our flight out because every ATM in town was empty and we couldn’t pay for a taxi back (thankfully a kind British lady gave us the money). We highly recommend you bring all the cash you need and then some before coming to the island. Thankfully as you will see, the town is very inexpensive, so it’s not a huge burden.
Calypso Beach Resort
During our visit, we stayed at Calypso Resort along Corong Corong Beach. There are many similar resorts in and around the area, so if you choose another resort you can expect a similar experience, but this is how it was for us. Regardless of where you stay in El Nido, you can anticipate beautiful clean water, a stunning bay view and gorgeous sunsets.
Calypso Beach Resort is a small guesthouse complex located directly on the beach. The complex is small, with only four accommodations. Each room has a front porch facing the beach, a decorated interior with bathroom and shower, and beautiful wide windows. You can take a swim in the ocean outside and the complex has a nice pool as well. We usually don’t swim in pools so it was good to have that option as it’s nice and private.
The staff is very helpful and kind, and provided us with water and snacks, which is great because El Nido does not have potable water. There are lots of restaurants within walking distance on the beach with many diverse cuisines. Tricycle drivers are always around on the main road, or it’s an easy 20-30 minute walk into town.
Taste Vegan Restaurant
Our first stop after settling into our hotel was Taste. This cute spot is a plant-based cafe in the main town area. The menu is a bit limited but you can’t go wrong. They offer smoothie bowls, all-day breakfast, sandwiches, salads, wraps, and hot bowls. We went for breakfast and ordered the Cool Blue and Smooth Red smoothie bowls. I love fruit, and since I moved to Korea, the fruits that I want are expensive and hard to find, so I knew I was going to have a blast in El Nido. Especially with how hot it can get, these were the perfect refreshers. The shop is rather small and has two floors that are in a treehouse-style with limited seating.
Via Ferrata Canopy Walk
If you want to see the best view of El Nido look no further than Via Ferrata Canopy Walk. You can book in person or in advance. We decided to walk-in since we didn’t have a set schedule that day. When you arrive will write your basic information and be assigned a guide. Just because your tour guide may be wearing flip-flops doesn’t mean you should. I highly recommend wearing sneakers since some of the bridges are swaying and you are stepping on rope, wooden boards, dirt, and rocks. You will be provided a helmet and a harness, so we recommend shorts or pants to make the harness more comfortable.
The hike takes you all the way up to Taraw Cliff overlooking the town and surrounding bay. If you are afraid of heights like me it can be a bit scary but it’s worth it as you witness the beauty of the water surrounded by lush vegetation and sheer cliffs. The guides will take pictures for you on whatever cameras you have available, and they did a great job. I felt like a kid on a jungle gym, climbing over the rocks and steel structures. It was a great tour and we had so much fun and loved the vista at the top. The tour is about an hour long and is friendly for average fitness levels, as long as you’re okay with large stairs.
Marimegmeg Beach
To end our evening, we took a trike to Marimegmeg Beach. This beach is one of the best places to watch the sunset on the island. The beach is large, clean, and has soft white sand. Islands dot the horizon as the beach wraps around the peninsula giving a perfect view over the ocean. We opted out of swimming since we had plenty in store for the next day. Michael and I just wanted to enjoy the fresh and air reflect on everything we were blessed with.
As we were walking on the beach we decided to take photos with the sunset behind us. Little did I know that Michael would hand me his phone with a picture of our daughter (our cat Nellie) asking me to marry her father. He got down on one knee and proposed there, with sky bursting into color as the sun set over the islands in the distance. I don’t really believe in perfect moments, but this felt like a dream.
I’m so happy we went to the beach that day because the next day it poured. This beach will always be special to us as El Nido was the start of one of our many adventures.
Happiness Bar and Grill
After the beach, we took a trike into town as a rain shower popped up. We chose this restaurant because it had a cozy vibe, and instead of chairs at the bar it had swings. This Mediterranean beach bar specializes in a variety of vegan and vegetarian options with fresh, locally sourced ingredients. If you are a meat-eater don’t worry there are some options for you too. I tried chori chori, which is pumpkin and chickpea curry with coconut milk. It tasted like happiness in a bowl. The best part is that it’s paired with garlic rice and cashews. I wish I could eat this every day, I’m still drooling from the thought. Michael ordered a delicious a hummus bowl that had some grilled eggplant that oozed with flavor.
On islands like Palawan, it seems like every hour is happy hour. No matter the time of day there is always a beach bar with drink specials. Thankfully drinks are affordable here, so you can easily snag a cocktail to avoid the sun or enjoy the evening. We did just that, and it was the perfect way to celebrate the end of the day.
Bella Vita Restaurant
Late at night after a long day we needed one more bite to eat. Just down the beach on the water is Bella Vita. We walked along the shore in the rain and quickly arrived. This Italian bistro serves up a variety of classic Italian dishes, and after a long day of hard work we felt a pizza was in order! It was really delicious, but mostly we loved the atmosphere of a beachside restaurant at night. There are many restaurants and bars like this along the water which was amazing to see.
Final Thoughts
After seeing so much of the world, and so many islands and beaches, El Nido is still one of the most magical places we’ve been. The incredible lagoons, and calm atmosphere give it a different feeling. Sure, there are many relaxing beaches out there, but something about the distance and isolation looking out over the horizon made El Nido feel so special. Although it’s a bit difficult to get to, it is absolutely worth the effort and we will surely go back one day.
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