Hiking Hallasan: Korea’s Tallest Mountain
About Hallasan
Jeju is a volcanic island with hundreds of volcanic cones called oreums scattered across the landscape. Directly in the center of the island is Hallasan, the largest volcano on the island, and the tallest point in Korea. The mountain is so huge, it’s hard to tell just how massive it is. But at 6,388ft (1,947m) this behemoth is nothing to sneeze at. Essentially, the entire island is the volcano, starting from the sea the land slowly but surely creeps upward towards the summit at the center. The center of Jeju is one large national park, almost untouched by humans, making it the perfect place to hike and see the beautiful flora and fauna of this unique island.
Which Trails To Hike
Jeju’s hiking network is extensive, but there are five main trails that lead up the mountain. The most important thing to know is that only two of the trails actually summit the mountain. The Gwaneumsa trail comes from the north, and the Seongpanak trail comes from the east, where they connect at the summit. The Eorimok, Yeongsil, and Donnaeko trails come from the west and south, and connect just below the summit. While it is possible to see the peak from the lower three trails, there is no current way to get to the summit or connect to the other trails.
Why would you choose to hike the lower three trails? Simply because they are far shorter and can get you to the top much faster. The Yongsil trail, especially, is quite short at 5.8km, it only takes 4-6 hours round-trip. The other trails are over 9km long and take 8-10 hours round trip, making them a full-day commitment. If getting to the top is a requirement for you, then you need to set aside a day for the hike. We didn’t intend to see the top, or even hike more than an hour, so we chose the Yongsil trail because it was the fastest way to get as high as possible.
It’s important to note that to summit the mountain, you need a permit. It is free to reserve a permit, and it can be done via their English site here. This is only necessary on the Gwaneumsa and Seongpanak trails, which reach the top. You will have to check in with a ranger at the trailhead with your reservation before starting your summit.
How To Get There
If you’re going to hike Hallasan, having a car really helps. There are bus stops at some of the trailheads, but service is not frequent, and can add quite a bit of time. The Yongsil trailhead is only accessible by car, at least without a large walk up a steep winding mountain road. Let’s be honest, getting down from a long day of hiking is just so much nicer if you can get in your own car and go straight home. Riding packed buses when you’re smelly isn’t a great feeling.
If you have to take public transit, there are bus stops at the trailheads of the Gwaneumsa, Seongpanak, Eorimok, and Donnaeko trails. For the summit trails, the buses turn a 20-minute drive from the city into over an hour. Keep in mind that some bus routes stop relatively early, so check ahead so you don’t get stranded on the empty mountainside.
Our Experience Hiking Hallasan
For our visit to Jeju, we did not plan on hiking to the top of the mountain. We knew we wanted to experience some nature, but we generally don’t spend more than a few hours on any activity. I had planned to hike the Yongsil trail for about an hour, because it’s the closest to the mountain and allows for the fastest ascent. We arrived early in the day, as the mountain was still shrouded in thick clouds. The Yongsil trailhead is so high that it is often covered in clouds, making for a misty start to our walk.
As soon as we started, the mountain magic hit us. The trees are large and covered in moss. Streams rushed over beautiful boulders, and the trail meandered through the stunning forest. It’s exactly what we wanted, so when we came across a steep wooden staircase endlessly climbing into the sky, we thought about turning around. For some reason, Yemisi said “Let’s go up a little more” and we’re so glad we did.
After 15 minutes of climbing stairs, we were surprised to be above the treeline. Suddenly, we were exposed on the steep trail as clouds rushed up the side of the mountain, soaking our clothes. I’ve never done such a thrilling hike. Climbing in the clouds is something I’ve never experienced before. At this elevation, the mountain is covered in short shrubs and rocks, and the right side of the trail was a massive cliff plunging hundreds of feet below into the mist.
At this point, we had hiked for an hour and really should have turned back. But just when we started to turn around, we came across a platform with an old man. He pointed out into the fog, and we were shocked to see Korean roe deer. These deer are native to the island but very hard to spot. They never come down to the populated areas, and don’t love people, so they are hard to see from the trail. It was so cool to witness, and we took it as a sign that we should press on. At this point, we were hooked on the adventure.
Because the trail is so steep, the environment totally changes every few hundred feet. One moment we were on a sheer cliff, then we were in an enchanted pine forest, then we were on bridges over massive boulders. Even though we were shrouded in clouds, it was still an adventure the whole way. Eventually, we popped above the clouds and realized that we were really going all the way.
Several hours later, we finally reached the highest point where the Yongsil and Donnaeko trails meet. From here, you can see the cone at the top of the volcano, although you can’t see inside. It’s still an amazing sight, with a massive sheer rocky cliff face seemingly reaching into the sky. There’s also an incredible view of the sea and Seogwipo, but sadly, it was mostly obscured by the clouds.
Since we didn’t prepare for a long hike, we didn’t pack any snacks or water. Right as we were saying how hungry we were, a random lady came out of nowhere and offered us some tangerines. It was the perfect, most refreshing snack of our lives. We don’t know if she knew what we were saying, but it was like an angel from heaven providing us with our reward for finishing the challenging hike.
Final thoughts
Hallasan is a truly magical place to hike. Even if you only have a few hours, we highly recommend you try to hike a portion of one of the trails. The Yongsil trail was a great option for a short hike, but we absolutely don’t regret going all the way. The island has a lot of great smaller trails to hike, but if you are up for the challenge, we know you won’t regret seeing Hallasan up close.
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