Kaohsiung Food Guide: Best Local Spots
Chun Lan Gua Bao
First stop on our Kaohsiung food guide is Chun Lan Gua Bao. We showed up early because Taiwan loves street food, and popular shops often end up with long lines. It’s a good thing we did, because by the time we left, there was already a line down the street. If the name didn’t give it away, they sell gua bao, a type of stuffed steamed bun from Fujian, China, the closest region to Taiwan. Taiwanese-style gua bao is stuffed with braised pork belly, pickled mustard greens, ground peanuts, and cilantro.
It came out steaming hot and smelling incredible, and as soon as I took a bite, I was in heaven. The lotus bun is so soft, and surprisingly sweet. It absorbs the fat from the tender pork, and the sweet sauce perfectly complements the savory meat. I’m a huge fan of cilantro, and the crushed peanuts just took the topping over the edge. It’s everything you could want from a pork bun, and I was scared we started off too strong because I could eat these every day.
Ruifeng Night Market
No food guide would be complete without mentioning Kaohsiung night markets. There are several famous markets in the city, including in the Yancheng district. The largest and most popular market in Kaohsiung is Ruifeng, a bustling street on the north end of the city with everything you could ever want. Of course, there are plenty of food stalls, but the market has lots of trendy clothing shops and souvenirs as well. We had a lot to eat that night, so we just went ahead and got a few snacks.
Our first stop was Xinchuang Mandarin Duck Milk Tea, located near the front corner of the market. This milk tea stall is absolutely iconic, because the owner only uses the freshest milk and has a special tea blend. We drank milk tea many times on our visit to Taiwan, but this ended up being my favorite stop. It was super creamy but not overwhelming, like a light ice cream in a cup.
We also stopped at Wen’s Fresh Milk Mochi, and got an assortment of mochi flavors. I was surprised at how extremely chewy and moist the mochi was. It was shocking that it even held its shape, as I felt like I was biting into chewy water. I wished there was a little bit more flavor to it, either sweetness or savory-ness, but the texture alone made it an interesting stop.
Liuhe Night Market
Another famous market in Kaohsiung is Liuhe. You wouldn’t know it though, because in the day it’s a totally normal street. The road is shut down at night, and the stalls are wheeled out from the alleys turning the otherwise boring road into a popping market. We accidentally booked a hotel on the road, so imagine our surprise when we walked straight out of our hotel into a sea of food and people. We had a lot of stops planned, so we quickly got to work finding all the stalls we wanted to try.
First was Zheng’s Old Brand Papaya Milk. Papaya milk is very popular in Kaohsiung, and this stall is one of the markets most famous. Apparently, this is the longest running stall in the market which explains the popularity. When we walked up they already had the papaya milk prepared, but so many people were buying that it didn’t last long. It was super sweet and fruity, with a very pleasant creamy texture. I think it would work really well if you plan on eating greasy meat at the market.
Next was Quail Egg Shrimp Balls. This little stall sells what I can only describe as takoyaki, made with a fresh quail egg and shrimp. It came with our choice of sauce and flavoring, and they worked with us to find a flavor combo we liked. Yemisi hates eggs, but I am a huge fan of runny eggs, so I knew I would love it. The combo of succulent quail egg yolk and fresh shrimp was absolutely to die for, and the crispy outside gave a great texture contrast.
Last stop was Shengyi Sausage, another popular stall in the market. This one had a line wrapping around itself by the time we arrived, so we knew we were in the right spot. They sell hot dogs stuffed in a sort of sticky rice coating, in all sorts of flavor combinations. It took quite a while to come out, and I was skeptical about how a hot dog could be worth the wait. I was really surprised when I bit into the very savory hot dog and realized it’s absolutely packed with flavor. It also has a great chewy texture that made me sad it was over.
Before we went home, we noticed the 7-Eleven near our hotel had a draft beer tap. I was so confused, so we decided to head inside. Sure enough, some 7-Eleven’s in Taiwan serve actual draft beer. I believe what I had was Sapporo, but I was so tired I’m not sure. Regardless, it was very strange yet satisfying to enjoy a cheap cold draft beer from a convenience store after such a bustling market experience.
Chun Shui Tang
If you know Taiwan, you know they love milk tea. On our first visit to Taiwan in Taipei, we tried Chun Shui Tang, the alleged creator of modern bubble tea. It was delicious, and we loved the experience, so we were pleased to find many Chun Shui Tang locations around Kaohsiung. We chose the branch near the He’ping Cultural Center and got a signature bubble tea alongside a pink guava lemon jasmine tea.
The experience did not disappoint, and lived up to the hype of our first visit. Taiwan is so incredibly hot even by midday, so I am beginning to understand why they love milk tea so much. It’s the perfect refreshing drink. If you’re disappointed that we didn’t try out any local milk tea places, don’t worry. We got our fill in Yancheng on our last night.
Cianjin Braised Pork Rice
Braised pork rice is a favorite dish in the south of Taiwan, as we learned the day before in Tainan. This location is a Michelin Bib Gourmand recommended joint, and locals line up well before they open. Thankfully, we got one of the last tables and ordered our rice with a duck egg on top. They are also famous for their other local dishes like milk fish soup, but we had other plans for that and didn’t want to get too full.
Taiwanese cuisine is one of my favorites in the world, and this is a perfect example why. The braised pork is so flavor-packed with salty and savory goodness. The duck egg added a new level of creamy and crispy texture, and the slightly tangy rice cut through the fat perfectly. If I lived in Kaohsiung, I would love to get this for breakfast every day.
Bo Home
Yet another Michelin guide-recommended restaurant, we stopped at Bo Home to try out their famous braised pork rice and milk fish soup. I was surprised that Bo Home is a proper sit-down restaurant, and not that classic open kitchen vibe you see with smaller Taiwanese shops. I have no complaints, but a more decorated restaurant is not as common, and since it was one of our last restaurants, it was a welcome sight.
In all honesty, “milkfish” doesn’t sound very appetizing, so I was hesitant. Fish in Asia area mixed bag for me because it often has a lot of pin bones, making it challenging to eat. Thankfully for me, the fish was super easy to eat and had a mild taste. It kind of reminded me of tilapia with a sweet taste and easy to eat texture. The braised pork rice was also delicious, although I personally preferred Cianjin Braised Pork Rice for its flavor.
Xing Long Ju
This is one of Kaohsiung’s oldest breakfast spots, popular with locals for their pork buns, flat bread sandwiches, and soy milk. By the time we got there, the line was already stretching far down the road, although there was a significantly shorter line for people who just wanted pork buns to go. You can see them steaming the buns right there on the sidewalk, and it was so unfair having to smell that as we waited. Eventually, we got a spot inside and picked up some sweetened soy milk, pork buns, and a sesame flatbread.
I’m a huge sucker for pork buns, and this one absolutely hit the spot. Nothing beats the chewy texture of a fresh bun, and the filling was simply to die for. Fresh soymilk is also something that can’t be beat. If you associate soy milk with the taste of a carton of “silk” from the shelf of a supermarket, you owe it to yourself to try the real thing. The flatbread was crunchy and warm, perfectly complementing the bun. Overall, our experience at Xing Long Ju was amazing. The staff were super kind to us, and a classic Taiwanese breakfast is the best way to start the day.
Hou De Fu Soup Dumplings
One of the last restaurants we visited in Kaohsiung was Hou De Fu Soup Dumplings. This is a famous spot for locals, where the soy milk and sweet tea is unlimited and there’s a line wrapping around the block. At this point we had eaten every regional dish we set out to try, so we just ordered what sounded good. I got a pork pie, and Yemisi got the chili wonton noodles. When I bit down on the pork pie, juice went flying in a stream several feet away. It was the crispiest yet juiciest bun I’ve eaten in my life. The chili wonton noodles were also a total success, Yemisi ended up liking these second most of the trip, next to the noodles we ate in Yancheng the night before.
Formula Coffee Roasters
We always try to stop at some specialty coffee shops when we’re in a new city, and Formula Coffee Roasters was first on the list. Located north of Formosa Boulevard, this unassuming back street is hiding a stylish little shop. Formula is a small place selling small batch roasted beans and craft drinks. I got an iced pour over with Taiwanese beans, and Yemisi got a craft cola. I usually prefer hot coffee, but the intense Taiwanese sun was just too hard to beat. Thankfully, the coffee was made with expert care, and offered a refreshing, fruity drink to cool me down. The craft soda was also delicious, with a herbal spicy flavor profile. The vibes at Formula are also really nice, but the indoor seating is limited, so be aware.
Fuelwood Coffee
One of the last stops before we left the city was Fuelwood Coffee. They have a few locations, but this one drew my eye with it’s adorable interior design. I wasn’t sure we were in the right place as we snaked through small back alleys, but this little shop punched well above its weight when we walked in. The barista was so kind to us, and helped me pick a coffee I liked. The pour over was absolutely delicious, and Yemisi really enjoyed her juice as well. Because it was so hot, the barista was kind enough to give us a free espresso tonic to help with the heat. It was a lovely experience to end our food journey in Kaohsiung.
Final Thoughts
We’ve eaten food all over Asia, but I think we were sleeping on Taiwanese cuisine. This trip helped us realize just how flavor packed their food can be. Southern Taiwanese food offers something unique compared to the north, with it’s incredible pork rice and milk fish soup. If you’ve not gotten enough food from our Kaohsiung food guide, check out our Yancheng district for even more local eats.
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