Mount Aso: Japan’s Largest Active Volcano
Kusasenrigahama
We started off our day bright and early at Kusasenri. This large plain sits between two peaks of the the mountain, Mt. Eboshi and Mt. Kishima. This used to be a volcanic hot spot, but now is dormant with two small ponds sitting in the former Craters. Visitors are able to explore the entire plains area, including hiking around the mountain and lakes.
We chose to visit this area first because the main peak doesn’t open until 9:00am, meaning we had extra morning light before heading to the top. As we approached we realized the lakes were frozen solid and the ground was hard. It gets pretty cold up there, so we made sure to bundle up tightly! I’ve seen many, many mountains before but this entire area felt new to me. Being down in the plains was like another world. As the sun rose over the peak, it reflected brilliantly on the frozen ponds and the valley exploded. Even though it was winter, I loved the environment and it was definitely worth getting up early to see.
Nakadake Craters
At the very top of Mount Aso is the Nakadake Crater area. This huge caldera consists of seven connected craters caused by various eruptions. For 1000 yen you can drive all the way to the top viewpoint, or you can walk from the lower parking lot for 20 minutes. Be aware that the mountain often produces noxious gas that can cause the peak to be closed. You can check their website for daily information. Even if the peak is open, those with asthma, heart issues, or other lung related health concerns are not allowed up due to the air quality.
I’ll be honest, we’ve been to several volcanoes in Indonesia and Korea in the past few years, so I thought I knew the drill. Just a tall mountain with a pit, possibly with some steam coming out. I was wrong. Nakadake is one of the largest calderas on Earth and is still very active. Photos don’t quite capture how vast the crater is, with sheer cliffs plummeting hundreds of feet into an acidic blue lake. Because it’s so active, the lake will sometimes disappear revealing cracks with magma below.
This place feels otherworldly. The last active volcano we saw in Jakarta was impressive, but this blew everything out of the water. The landscape is scoured and dead from the volcanic gas, and the fumes made me cough the entire time. The hill is littered with huts that look like bomb shelters. Even after leaving I tasted sulfur for hours. Regardless, it was a truly magical experience. The view of the caldera is simply stunning and the peak offers equally beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. Because it is so accessible, no trip to Aso would be complete without visiting.
Sunasenrigahama
Our last stop on Mount Aso was Sunasenri. This is just down the road from the main crater, yet it feels completely different. It is a large plains area downwind of the volcano, making it the perfect place for ash, acidic rain, and magma to settle after eruptions. Fittingly, the area is a total waste land with massive “magma bombs” scattered across empty fields of smoldering volcanic sand.
The only place I’ve ever been that felt like this was Yellowstone National Park. It is such a uniquely beautiful yet somber landscape. Nothing but the hardy Japanese Knotweed Bush can survive here, yet it has its own magic to it. We walked down the boardwalk in awe of the vast mountains and black sandy ground.ย
Minamiaso Specialty Coffee
Coming down from Mount Aso we were looking for a place to chill out, and I wanted some good coffee. Yemisi found Minamiaso on maps and we decided to check it out. It’s a brand new building, adding to our long list of coffee shacks in Japan. They have a limited menu of specialty coffee and some tea, so I got a pour over and Yemisi got an affogato. My coffee was excellent, I don’t know where they get their beans roasted, but the barista definitely knew how to prepare it. The affogato was made with Aso ice cream which is a local delicacy we’ll talk more about later. Minamiaso was the perfect refresher after a busy morning.
Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine
One of the most popular spots around Aso is Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine. This magical forested shrine is often called a gateway into another world. What makes it so special isn’t the shrine itself, but the path leading up to it. After parking in the lot and walking across the street, you’re greeted with a long climb up stone stairs into the cedar forest. Flanking the staircase is hundreds of stone lanterns, covered in moss and dappled in sunlight as if it were a painting.
Getting up to the shrine takes some work, but it’s well worth it as you are rewarded with one of Japan’s most unique shrine experiences. The closest I can relate it to is the thousands of tori gates at Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. Beyond the shrine at the top is a much steeper hill, snaking itself up into the sky. As I approached the top, I realized there is an immense stone arch, leading to the other side. This is really where it felt like another world. I could have sworn the arch would transform into a portal any minute and take me to a land of mythical beasts.
้ๆฟ็ผ้ฟ่ใพใผใผใผ (Teppanyaki Aso Mabo)
Sadly, it was time for us to leave Kyushu and drive back to the airport. Realizing we wouldn’t have time to eat before boarding, we chose to grab some food in Aso on our way out. This restaurant was the most highly rated we found, so we gave it a shot. We ordered a hamburg steak a bowl of gyudon. Usually, Japanese food doesn’t do it for me. I like really strong flavors, spice, and contrast. Japanese food is much closer to a western palette, which is probably why Americans like it so much.
Thankfully, this dish really delivered. I’m a sucker for teppanyaki, and it’s always cool to see your food being prepared on the grill in front of you. Japanese grills are quite a bit different form what a “hibachi grill” in America would have you believe. The food itself had a good punch of flavor, and I really savored every bite. The egg gave it the perfect creamy texture, and the meat was very high quality. After a few food misses the day before in Takachiho, it was great to end the Kyushu trip on a culinary high note.
Aso Soft
Apparently, Mount Aso is well known for its dairy products. The rich nutrient dense soil from the volcano leads to high quality and healthy cows, who produce award-winning milk. Therefore, we had to stop and get the famous Aso ice cream on our way out. Lucky for us, Aso Soft was just across the street from the restaurant, so we popped by. At this point we’ve really had incredible ice cream in Japan from Blue Seal, so our expectations for Japanese soft serve is very high. Aso Soft delivered, it was the perfect ratio of sweetness and had the absolute best soft serve texture. I’m not really sure if I can say the milk was better than normal, it was certainly a great way to close our Aso trip.
Final Thoughts
Usually, people just spend half a day in Aso, and leave without seeing more than the main crater. I’m so glad we took the time to explore Mount Aso thoroughly, and everything else surrounding it. Kyushu is a truly beautiful part of the country, and we could have spent a lot longer seeing the many craters and interesting geographic features.
