Okinawa Best Road Trip
Paanilani
We started our road trip in Onna, a small town in the center of Okinawa popular with tourists. This is often the furthest north travelers go, especially if you don’t have a car. Onna is home to the famous Cape Manzamo, where we planned to end our day trip, as well as well-known spots for Okinawan donuts and poke bowls that we visited the day before. We started here because we heard about a pancake place that serves authentic diner-style pancakes, something we rarely get in Korea. We arrived as soon as they opened, and there were already several people in the queue, so we knew we were in the right spot.
I ordered Spam and eggs, since Spam is so popular on the island, and Yemisi got the Nuts Nuts Nuts pancakes, which have a nut sauce and bananas on the side. Pancakes are simple and can be hard to make special, but a truly great one really hits the spot. These were super fluffy, but not in the style of Japanese “pancakes,” they had just the right texture. We Kirby inhaled our food without saying anything because they were so good. The Spam and eggs were perfect with maple syrup, and Yemisi loved her pancakes packed with fruit and nuts. Since we had a lot to do that day, we were glad to start with a big breakfast.
Churaumi Aquarium
After leaving Paanalini, we drove north through Nago, one of the top cities for tourists on the island. This large peninsula has some of the best accommodations for families, including the famous Pineapple Park, popular zoos, and swimming beaches. The other major attraction on the peninsula is arguably the largest attraction on the island, Churaumi Aquarium. If you want to visit this section of the island, having a car is basically mandatory. You can take a guided day trip from Naha, but there’s so much to see in this area that a day might not be enough. Especially if you plan on going anywhere else we went in Okinawa on our road trip, a car is required.
Whale Shark
As we rolled up there were already floods of people coming to enjoy the aquarium, so we got in as soon as we could. You probably already know, but Churaumi Aquarium is home to the famous whale shark, housed in a tank with one of the largest windows in the world. Of course, the aquarium also has hundreds of other species of fish, and sits in a massive seaside park. Because of its popularity, the viewing room with the whale shark is usually packed, so we tried to get there as close to opening as possible. We arrived just in time to see it without a crowd, but by the time we left, there were hundreds of people lining the seats and staircases, so we’re glad we came early.
One side of the tank is dedicated to a cafe, where you can get a table right next to the windows. We were early enough that the queue wasn’t long, so we got in line and got a table with an incredible view. The drinks are not that great, but the view all that matters. At the main window, the whale shark usually likes to swim higher up, but by the cafe tables, it frequently passes by at eye level, making it an amazing experience.
We noticed that the right side of the whale shark is a little beat up because it rubs against the aquarium. We’ve heard criticism from visitors that the tank is too small or too bare, and I somewhat agree, even though it’s massive. I think the animals would benefit from a larger tank, but it’s not criminally small, and I haven’t been able to find any professionals calling for it to be changed.
Ocean Expo Park
Churaumi Aquarium is not the only attraction here. It actually sits on Ocean Expo Park, a massive park along the coast with lots of walking paths, shady areas, and things to see. There are beaches on the far ends of the park, several arboretums and tropical gardens, a manatee pavilion, a sea turtle habitat, as well as a dolphin show.
You don’t even need a ticket to visit anything outside of the aquarium, meaning if you don’t care to see the whale shark, you can still enjoy an incredible dolphin show for free. We visited in the lead-up to Halloween, so we were treated to a “spooky” show, where a ghost scared away the trainers, and the dolphins had to save the day. It was adorable, and we were singing “dancing dancing pumpkins” in our heads for weeks.
Ta-taki Waterfall
After leaving the aquarium, we truly began our journey beyond the tourist destinations. In the hills of northern Okinawa is a small road leading up a valley that appears to be used only by farmers. Eventually, we came across a small parking lot with a log hut. If you do choose to visit here, make sure Google Maps is taking you to the parking lot, not the waterfall itself, as it will give wrong directions. From here, you can rent water shoes and equipment, and make your way up a small stream to find Ta-Taki Waterfall. When we first entered the stream, I was skeptical that there would be a waterfall, because it seemed so shallow.
Only a few minutes into our hike, we were confronted with a large pool, forcing us to get knee deep. The gorge isn’t that wide, and even though the flow of water was slow, there were some really deep parts. If the water is really low, it’s possible that you can avoid getting wet above your ankles if you really hug the cliff walls, but you should expect water up to your thighs if not a full-on swim. As we hiked, we were so refreshed by the clear, cool water. The stream is so clean, and on such a hot day, I was more than happy to take a dip in the water. At some point, we were really forced to climb over some large boulders and water features. It reminded us of canyoneering in Cebu, Philippines, although a lot less extreme. Regardless, the hike was a ton of fun, and I’d say it’s worth it just for that.
When we finally arrived at the falls, I was surprised at how powerful it was. Water was rushing down quickly, filling the valley with cool air. It is a bowl shape, very similar to one we saw in Bali, but with a lot less water. At this waterfall, you are allowed to swim underneath the falls, which was so much more intense than I thought. The water really stung as it beat down on us, but it was so much fun to feel the rush from below. Overall, the hike took about 30 minutes each way, and we spent a good 2-3 hours there. I wasn’t expecting a small waterfall hike to be so exciting, but it ended up being one of the highlights of our trip.
Cape Hedo
From the waterfall, we continued our Okinawa road trip, driving along the cliffs to the northernmost point of the island, Cape Hedo. The drive to the cape is stunning, with large rocky cliffs crashing into the ocean. At this point, it’s easy to see why so few people come this way. There are almost no towns this far north, as the extreme windswept cliffs make it impossible to inhabit. It was an incredible drive with over an hour of coastal roads and scenic beaches, with the iconic blue water sparkling in the sun. When we arrived at the cape, we were immediately smacked with the wind constantly bombarding the outcrop. Due to the high wind and choppy waters, there are no beaches to swim at in this area, making it not too popular for tourists.
There’s nothing too special about Cape Hedo in the geographic sense. There are plenty of other islands surrounding Okinawa, and this is just the northern point of one of them. That being said, it was a very beautiful area, being located inside a national park, it is by far the most isolated and untouched part of the island.
When I first came to Okinawa, I really expected something like Jeju Island in Korea. On the surface, these islands are pretty similar. However, Okinawa is so much more urbanized, and finding pure nature is surprisingly hard compared to Jeju, where a quick drive has you in the middle of nowhere. It was refreshing to have such a stunning coast to ourselves.
King Taco
On our way back down the coast, we had to stop in the city of Kin. Here is the main branch of King Taco, the original creator of the famous Okinawan taco rice. If you don’t know, Okinawa has one of the largest overseas US military bases in the world. Over the years, soldiers brought in American influence which of course, includes the Mexican influence on American cuisine. And thus, taco rice was born. Basically, just imagine “white person taco night” on rice and you have the classic taco rice.
To be honest, I really wasn’t a big fan. I love Mexican food with all my heart, and white person taco night just doesn’t do it for me. On our first day in Miyako, we had taco rice from another popular brand called Ruler’s, and it was so much better. Ruler’s is a lot more like a bowl from a fancy joint in a gentrified neighborhood, and King’s is much simpler. It’s totally passable, but I prefer the more flavorful modern version. Still, it was good to taste the original and see where this interesting fusion dish originated.
Cape Manzamo
To end our road trip to the north, we arrived back in Onna to see the Okinawa sunset at Cape Manzamo. This location is famous for the elephant rock formation. I had imagined that it was a large oceanside park, with walking paths and cafes. In reality, it’s actually a very small loop around a peninsula that costs 200 yen and can be walked in 2-3 minutes. The only thing you can do here is look at the elephant rock and shop in the massive gift store. While the rock itself was very impressive, the sunset was not, as it fell behind clouds on the horizon. We spent 15 minutes walking around and waiting for the crowd to disperse before getting a shot with the rock and leaving. I’m glad the price was so low, because you really can’t spend much time here, but if you’re in the area, it’s worth seeing.
Gourmet Conveyor Belt Sushi Ichiba Mihama
To end the night, we travelled back down to the American Village, where tourists usually hang out. I love sushi, but Yemisi doesn’t eat raw fish, so we don’t get it too often. But whenever we’re in Japan, we usually go to a conveyor restaurant at least once. Since we were in Okinawa, we knew they would have good sushi. This place is known for its high-quality cuts of fish, and it really showed.
We usually go to a chain like Hama Sushi, because they have non-raw options for Yemisi, but we were pleasantly surprised at the wide selection. I could really tell with the tuna and salmon that they were using really great fish, and the gunkan was to die for. It’s twice as expensive as Hama, but we didn’t eat a ton, so it was reasonable. Just prepare for a wait. This local joint is popular, and you can expect a 1-2 hour line on busy nights. It was the perfect way to finally end our long Okinawa road trip.
Final Thoughts
Taking a road trip to the north of Okinawa was definitely worth it. We escaped the city and found beautiful, untouched nature, and unique experiences I wasn’t expecting from this island. While we had a blast exploring Naha and Chatan, our day trip to Cape Hedo ended up being our favorite day on the main island. The next day we learned you can get a similar experience by going to the Kerama islands off the south coast instead, but if you have time, I highly recommend getting a car and exploring this less popular part of the island.
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