Old Delhi Food Tour
Aloo Tikki
Our first stop was a street food restaurant at the entrance of the city. The line was long, with many locals there, so we saw that as a great sign. This was our first time trying aloo tikki, a potato croquette mixed with spices and served with tamarind sauce and chutney. This restaurant also cooks with very fresh ingredients, and the aloo tikki came straight out of the fryer. Anything with tamarind is a yes for me! While I was waiting for the aloo tikki to cool, I had a taste of the sauce, and the flavor of the sweet and spicy tamarind is a taste I can’t forget. The aloo tikki was crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, cooked to perfection. This was a strong start to the Old Delhi food tour.
Soya Malai Chaap
Our next dish was only a few blocks away. It’s called soya malai chaap, a vegan “meat” made with soy beans and flour that is high in protein. Usually, it is grilled or made in a tandoori oven. Ours was coated in a creamy sauce that tasted smooth, savory, and rich. I haven’t had many experiences with meatless meat, but this was the best one yet. I could have easily been convinced I was eating meat.
It was really hot, therefore the dish was hard to hold. Our guide put it on someone’s bike and said it was okay for us to eat on top of it. We were laughing at how wild it was to be eating incredible street food off of some random person’s bike in Old Delhi. It was a really memorable street food experience.
Kullad Chai
To take a break from eating, our guide took us to get a beverage. India is not a coffee-drinking country like the Western world, they usually reach for tea. This is what I was looking forward to the most. We had kullad chai, which is a standard milk chai served in a clay cup called a kullad. Chai is said to have lots of health benefits, such as reducing stress, helping with digestion, and more. Before serving, the kullad is rinsed with water and warmed with boiling water.
This is our guide’s favorite place to get chai in Old Delhi, and I can see why. I just closed my eyes, let the smell hit my nostrils, and everything melted away. It was slightly spicy with a hint of sweetness. I knew I would love the chai, and I think the only thing that could make it better is ice, since I love iced drinks. Chai is a common drink to grab on the go, and the kullad are disposable, so you can break them down into clay and reuse them.
Old Delhi Tuk-Tuk Tour
We had a small taste of Old Delhi when we were on our food tour from the previous day, but we didn’t really get to explore. Our guide gave us two options before heading to our next food stop: take a tuk-tuk through the city center, or go around the outside. Without thinking, I chose to go through the heart of the city. The guide arranged a deal with a tuk-tuk, and we were on our way into the hustle and bustle. The streets were crowded with people, tuk-tuks, cows, vendors, and trucks.
I have never been somewhere that crowded in my life, it even beats Shanghai during the holidays. The sounds of horns, various smells of food, trash, and the cows, it felt like a dream. Because of Independence Day, everyone was at the markets, and the streets were massively crowded. A 10-minute ride turned into a 40-minute adventure through tight alleys, but we finally made it. Since we got up at 2 am that morning to go to Agra, I was fighting for my life to stay away on the long tuk-tuk ride. Even now, it feels like a fever dream thinking about being in such a foreign environment.
Nalli Nihari with Tandoori Roti
After finally making it to the other side of Old Delhi, we got out of the tuk-tuk and made our way into a small alley. This is the part of the food tour that felt the most Old Delhi local, a tiny hole in the wall deep into the city. There’s no way we could have found this on our own. Our guide served us nalli nihari, a spicy bone marrow stew with beef. The legend is that when the Mughal capital was relocated from Agra to Delhi, the army was not used to the colder weather and was getting sick during the winter. A general advised them to eat a hearty, spicy dish to combat the cold, and nalli nihari was born.
This stew is super savory, with the bone marrow taking it to the next level. Our guide was worried it would be too spicy, but we’re used to Korean food, so it wasn’t a challenge for us. This was a very unique dish, and was one of Michael’s favorites on the tour.
Old Delhi Style Fried Chicken
When I first heard we were going to try Old Delhi-style fried chicken, the only idea that came to my mind was that it would have more spices compared to Western-style. We were really in for a treat! The restaurant our guide took us to serves really fresh chicken. The chicken arrives in the afternoon each day and is cooked and served until it sells out or until closing. Outside the restaurant, you can see them cut, fry, and season the chicken at different stations like an assembly line.
I’ve never had chicken this fresh in my life, it was so crispy and juicy. What makes it Old Delhi-style is the sprinkle of garam masala, fresh lemon, and red onion on top. The chicken was praise stomping in my mouth and screaming hallelujah. The lemon and onions cut through the oil and spice perfectly, making it some of the best chicken I’ve had. When we arrived, it was really busy, so the locals clearly agree how delicious it is.
Shahi Tukra
Our last dish of the night was shahi tukra for dessert. When I first saw the dish, it looked quite familiar, but I couldn’t point to exactly what it reminded me of. Shahi tukra is a bread pudding with milk, sugar, and a fruity topping. This dessert was created during the Mughal empire, and is also very popular during Ramadan. We each received a small hot bowl of shahi tukra topped with tutti frutti. The closest thing it reminds me of is tres de leche in structure. The sweetness of the milk and the soft texture of the bread were easy to eat. It’s super simple and sweet, but not overwhelming. It was a great dish to finish off the tour.
Final Thoughts
It was so hard to try and plan authentic food in Delhi. I was really worried about the language barrier, food safety, and choosing the right restaurant. Booking this tour really made me feel at ease, with a wide variety of popular spots and hidden local gems. I’m really glad we got to have a real taste of Old Delhi. Our guide was amazing, and we felt confident exploring Old Delhi and eating like locals.
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