Samarkand Ultimate Travel Guide
Registan Square
Our first stop was the famous Registan Square. There’s no point in beating around the bush: This is probably the most beautiful and stunning architecture we’ve ever seen. Without exaggeration, Registan Square gave me a bone-chilling sense of awe and almost brought me to tears. The square consists of a large plaza, surrounded by three massive madrasas, each covered with intricate tile work and carving. It’s hard to show the scale of these buildings. With no other structures around, these massive walls feel like they are reaching into the heavens, and with such intricate decoration, it’s easy to imagine how important they must have been so long ago.
With construction spanning from the 15th-17th century, this ancient plaza was the center of life in Samarkand for hundreds of years. From here, people worshipped, traded, and convened. During the height of the Timurid empire, this would have been one of the most important places in all of Asia and the center of the Silk Road. We explain what a madrasa is in our Bukhara article, and while Bukhara has many impressive and beautiful sites, Registan Square blows everything out of the water. You can pay a travel guide to take you up a minaret for the ultimate view of Samarkand, but we didn’t have the time. Guides can also give tours for relatively reasonable prices.
Ulugh Beg Madrasa
We first entered Ulugh Beg Madrasa, named after one of the most famous sultans of the Timurid empire. This is the oldest of the madrasas, dating back to 1420. Every surface is covered in deep blue, teal, and green tiles, radiating in spectacular kaleidoscope patterns. The buildings have been preserved so well but still feel ancient. Walking around the center courtyard, it’s impossible not to feel insignificant as you ponder the long history and thousands of people who have come and gone from this place. Ulugh Beg Madrasa also houses a museum of the complex, with artifacts and dioramas showcasing ancient life in Samarkand.
Sherdor Madrasa
Next, we visited Sherdor Madrasa. This has the least interesting interior, although it was unique for having a green tile design instead of blue. There were also more souvenir shops in this madrasa than any other, as well as lots of sitting areas. The exterior wall has an interesting design depicting tigers holding the sun on their back. Most madrasas are decorated with abstract designs, making this one very unique.
Tilya-Kori Madrasa
Lastly, we entered Tilya-Kori Madrasa. At this point, I was overwhelmed from the other madrasas and was almost relieved when I realized the interior was much less detailed than the last two. This madrasa has small walls and a less intricate design, making it the least impressive of the three, although it is still a very beautiful building. We took the time to take some pictures and relax in the calm courtyard before the western wall caught my eye.
Inside the opening was a mosque, which was traditionally used as the main mosque of Registan Ensemble. Yemisi was getting a bit tired and didn’t want to go in, but as soon as I peered inside, I forced her to take off her shoes and join me. My mind was shattered as I looked towards the vaulted dome ceiling. The entire room was covered from floor to ceiling in deep, rich blue and brilliant gold gilding. Every surface is delicately carved, and the colors are so brilliant it almost appeared as though the entire room was glowing.
When traveling, I’m always scared of that “instagram vs reality” moment where the illusion falls apart, and you realize that life is just not as brilliant as the internet makes it seem. Instagram could never have prepared me for this place, and I have never felt such an intense opposite reaction. Pictures do not convey how beautiful, domineering, and peaceful Registan Square is. You could probably spend half a day in this area, but sadly, we only had a few hours.
Osh Markazi Restaurant
After leaving Registan, we were so hungry, so we decided to head to Osh Markazi for some plov. This restaurant was recommended by Mark Wiens during his visit several years ago. Since his visit, the restaurant was reconstructed, which confused us, but we eventually found the right place. We ordered plov, which is Uzbekistan’s version of pilaf. Here, they go heavy on sesame oil and often include lamb or beef, and carrots. Though it is a simple dish, plov is packed with savory flavor and delicate spices.
I love super flavorful food from Southeast Asia and tend to not like simple dishes from Europe, however, plov marries the two styles perfectly. If I had to eat one dish for the rest of my life, plov would be a contender. We also got tandoori bread, which was quickly becoming a staple for us in Uzbekistan, and overall, the meal was delicious and had us satisfied for the day.
Gur-i Amir Mausoleum
Fully stuffed, we headed back near Registan Square to Gur-i Amir Mausoleum. This is one of the most important historical sites in Samarkand. In 1404, this mausoleum was constructed for Muhammad Sultan, the grandson of Timur. Over time, many important people from the Timurid line were also buried here. The building looks similar to a mosque, with a large wavy dome and towers on either side. Inside, there is a small museum where you can learn more about the history of the Timurid empire and their conquests.
The main attraction is the inner chamber. This stunningly decorated room is covered on all surfaces with beautiful teal tiling, detailed carvings, and of course, gilded in gold. Similar to the mosque at Registan, I was blown away by the attention to detail of this room. The exterior isn’t very special compared to all the other amazing buildings in this city, but the interior is truly special. At this point, I’m running out of words to describe how beautiful Samarkand is, and we’re only halfway through the day.
Tashkent Road
If you walk from the mosque to Registan Square and go beyond it, you will come to Tashkent Road. This is a central artery of the city that is closed to traffic on the weekends. Here, you will find plenty of walking space as well as restaurants and clothing stores. This is one of the best places in the city to find souvenirs, as these stores are much larger and have many options for clothing and items. We decided to pick up some interesting pieces from here, and they have held up well and are super comfortable. When we visited in the winter the road was pretty quiet, but in the summer, it seems to really pop off. Tashkent Road is also home to Siyob Bazaar, a massive market with everything you could ever want. Sadly, we visited on Monday, which is the only day the market is closed.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
At the end of the street is Bibi-Khanym Mosque. Constructed by Timur in 1404, this is one of the largest and oldest buildings in the city. To be honest, this mosque is not as well maintained as the others, with lots of missing tiles. However, the tile work is not what is impressive about this building. As you can see, this structure is gigantic. The outer dome is 130ft (40m) tall, forcing you to look straight up just to see it. Standing inside the mosque completely dominates your vision, and we were baffled how such a massive arch could even stand for over 600 years.
Although the scale of the mosque is impressive, there is not much else to see. Across the street is Bibi Khanym Mausoleum, another important historical location that is related to the mosque. However, it was getting late in the day, and we decided to move on. If you want to see all of the major structures in Samarkand, this should definitely be on your list. However, if you are short on time like we were this is the one mosque/madrasa I think you can skip.
Shah-i-Zinda
Past Tashkent Road is Afrasiyab. This is the historic ancient center of Samarkand prior to the Mongol invasion. Now, it is a massive mound of dirt and rubble in the center of the modern city. It is possible to walk through this ancient site where you can observe ruins and find ancient streets. However, the main attraction in this area is Shah-i-Zinda. This is an ancient complex of mausoleums on the hillside at the edge of Afrasiyab, the oldest of which were built in the 11th century, although most of the mausoleums date to the 14th and 15th centuries.
Yet again, this is a completely mesmerizing site to visit. The walls of the mausoleums are so close together, making an incredible corridor of intricately tiled walls. As you walk up the stairs, each structure stands out with unique architecture. Some have been degraded over time, some are well preserved. The interiors are all open and vary wildly in design. Although filming inside isn’t always allowed, it’s still an iconic place to visit in the city. Of all of the sites in Samarkand, Shah-i-Zinda has the most intricately detailed buildings. Although it’s not the most grand layout, this should definitely be on your list of destinations.
Ulugbek Observatory
Lastly, we walked to Ulugbek Observatory. I had seen images of this observatory, and a local friend recommended we visit. As I mentioned earlier, Ulug Bek was a grandson of Timur and, eventually, the sultan of the Timurid Empire. He is well known for his many contributions to astronomy, with his discoveries finding their way to the Western world along the Silk Road. In 1420, Ulug Bek commissioned the construction of a massive observatory, with huge tracks dug into the ground and a large circular building on top. The structure acted like a massive sextant, allowing for the accurate tracking of stars.
On our way up, we were “screamed” at by locals trying to sell us bread with so much enthusiasm that I almost ran away. We climbed the hill, excited to see the incredible building. As we arrived at the top of the hill we were greeted with… Nothing. Somehow, I missed the memo that the observatory no longer exists, instead, only the original tracks dug into the earth remain next to the base of the building.
There is a museum next to the observatory with lots of information about the site, however, it is quite small. Although it is an important and interesting structure, if you’re strapped for time, the lack of a building to observe means you can skip this spot. To top it off, we had planned on eating at a restaurant right around the corner, which was closed for some reason on that day.
Ikrom Shashlik
To end the day, we were starving and took a taxi to Ikrom Shashlik. This unassuming restaurant is far away from the city center, but it was recommended by Mark, so we trusted the process. Shashlik is a type of shish kebab in central Asia. Usually lamb or beef, this restaurant offers a massive variety of cuts of meat. We had bull testicles, lamb, beef, fish, and a sort of sausage. All of it was delicious beyond words. The smoky flavor is so intense, and the meat melts in your mouth. Of course we also had to get salad and bread with our meal.
The best part is our new friend. Our server named Aziz couldn’t speak a single word of English. Regardless, he worked with us to find the food we wanted and was so patient and kind to us. In the end, we took a picture with him, and the rest of the restaurant staff joined in, making it the best way to end the night.
Final Thoughts
I could have never expected how amazing Samarkand was. Uzbekistan is a country full of surprises beyond my imagination. If I had to recommend one city in Central Asia to visit, Samarkand would be high on the list. The stunningly beautiful architecture, amazing food, and great friendly people made this one of the greatest days of travel we’ve ever had. We hope our ultimate travel guide inspires you to visit Samarkand and discover its beauty.
Check out our Travel Diary
