Slow Day in Okinawa: Castles and Coasts
Delight Farm (COFFEESTAND)
To start off our morning, we visited Delight Farm (COFFEESTAND). This coffee shop is very unique, as it is built in a shipping container with recycled wood. The location is a bit hidden, requiring you to pull off into a lot tucked off the side of the road. The owners were very friendly which immediately set the mood. We were excited because they sell Okinawan beans. These beans are pricey as there is a very limited quantity, but Michael had to try at least once.
Michael’s Thoughts:
Beans from places that don’t grow coffee are usually not the greatest. Coffee beans grown in non-native climates lack depth and flavor, but this was super fruity and acidic, which is characteristic of very high quality coffee. The owner picks everything by hand, and pays close attention, only choosing the absolute best cherries, which is why they’re twice as expensive. It was super smooth, with no bitter or sour notes at all. It was grown, roasted, and brewed perfectly. A true S-tier coffee.
I chose to get a chocolate banana smoothie. It was very different as I was expecting it to have a thin texture. In actually it was really thick and rich, and I had to eat it with a spoon. It was a delicious mix between the flavors rather than being heavy on the banana. To pair with our drinks, we ordered their homemade toast spread with lemon curd. It had a perfectly crunchy outside and the inside was nice and soft, with just enough lemon curd coating it. Delight Farm (COFFEESTAND) is easily in our top favorite Japanese coffee shops.
Katsuren Castle Ruins
After breakfast, our first stop was Katsuren Castle. Due to a heat advisory, we wanted to knock it out early. This UNESCO site was built in the 14th century by the Chuzen Dynasty. Okinawa was not always part of mainland Japan, but was home to the Ryukyu people, who descended from early Japanese and Chinese settlers. The islands of Okinawa were ruled by the Ryukyu Kingdom and paid tribute to the Chinese and Japanese, until they were finally annexed into Japan in 1879. Many Okinawans still trace their heritage to the Ryukyu indigenous people. Castles like this can be found all over the islands, giving Okinawa an interesting and unique history.
There is a museum with more information, but you do not need to go to the museum to visit the castle. From the road, you can see the castle high on the hill, with a grand, winding path leading to the summit. We spent an embarrassingly long time waiting for a crosswalk before we realized we had to hit the crosswalk button, but it let us appreciate the view. The hike up the stairs and paths is moderate, but I wouldn’t say it is accessible. The Katsuren Castle Ruins have several layers and terraces that we spent about an hour roaming. When we made it to the top there was a striking 360 view of Okinawa, with the city and bright blue water on one side, and rolling mountains and beaches on the other.
Takaesu Soba
A traditional dish from Okinawa is Okinawan soba. The noodles are made from wheat flour making it different from traditional Japanese soba. One of our favorite food YouTubers Mark Weins recommended a local soba restaurant called Takaesu Soba, and we arrived early since it’s very popular. Even though we came an hour after they opened, it was already full. Thankfully, we didn’t have to wait for long to get our seats. Ordering there was my worst nightmare, as you must place an order using an old kiosk. I took the menu and I tried to match the names to the buttons on the machine like I was cracking a code. I was scared to mess it up but luckily I got everything I wanted.
We ordered the Okinawa soba, Yushi tofu soba, and a plum rice ball. The soba had a light broth with soft meat that just melted in my mouth. I enjoyed the Yushi tofu soba the most because I love the texture of the tofu and the noodles together. The plum rice ball is exactly what you’d expect if you’ve ever gotten a pickled plum onigiri from the convenience store . Overall, the noodles were incredibly good, and worth the visit. The meal was dripping in flavors of Japanese simplicity.
Mitsuya Honpo Onna
Another famous Okinawan snack is sata andagi (Okinawan donuts). Okinawan donuts are more similar to Chinese style donuts than Western donuts, with a heavier bready texture. We were able to try them fresh in Miyakojima, so we were curious to see how they differed on the mainland. Mitsuya Honpo Onna is probably the most famous donut shop in Okinawa. There isn’t seating inside so everything is to go. There are many options including traditional and modern flavors, making it difficult to decide. We picked their tapioca ball, sesame, brown sugar, and beni imo flavored donuts.
The sesame had just came out from the fryer, and we ate it as quickly as possible. The donut was warm with a crunchy outer layer, and soft on the inside. It had a slight sesame taste, but it wasn’t very strong. They were all on the dryer side, but the dough is more like a cake donut which explains why. Our favorite was the tapioca ball, as it was different and had a chewy light texture, but it needs to be consumed within 3 hours of frying. They have seats outside to enjoy your donuts, but on the chairs it says “Do Not Feed the Cat”. I thought I would see a cute mischievous cat, but this cat did make an appearance and it wasn’t in the greatest condition. I hope the cat gets some food that aren’t donuts.
808 Poke Bowls Okinawa
808 Poke Bowls Okinawa is a popular Hawaiian restaurant with two branches on the island. We went to the Onna branch because I liked its interior. We went earlier in the day, because they have a limited quantity of fish every day. What makes this place special is that their fish is fresh caught daily. The day before we visited Morning Bowls in Chatan, but they were sold out of tuna. Here, Michael was finally able to get his tuna, which was super fresh. The bowl was very simple and relied on the incredible taste of the fresh fish to pull it through.
I don’t eat raw fish, so I tried their acai bowl with granola, honey, and fruit. The texture was thick, but not as much as Morning Bowls from the day before. Their acai was fine, but wasn’t my favorite because the honey was really strong. I haven’t had honey like that in years, so I think I’m sensitive to the taste now. Luckily, we were able to grab a seat inside as there is always a line outside the door. I love the interior with its relaxed beachy vibe and bright walls, making it the perfect place for a chill lunch!
Cape Zanpa Lighthouse
After lunch we drove along the coast to Cape Zanpa. This area of the island is very windswept, so I actually got a little chilly. We climbed up the rocks to find a great view to capture the lighthouse. It was very important to move slowly because rocks were super sharp, and the cliffs were massive. We found a spot on the rocks and our eyes captured the view, it was a perfect picturesque moment. The clouds were perfect, making it seem like we were inside of a postcard.
We were really debating on going up the light house or not, because it has a lot of stairs. I caved, and we paid a small fee to head up. There are 99 stairs leading to the top, taking about 5 minutes. Going up the stairs wasn’t as bad as I thought, since the stairwell wasn’t too stuffy. Once we made it to the top, we agreed it was worth the climb. Walking around the balcony, the view has a good balance of ocean, cliffs, beach and hills.
As someone who is afraid of heights, I stayed closer to the lighthouse than the railing, since it was really windy. The view from the bottom was great, but from the top it was a whole different perspective. It was definitely one of my favorite capes of the trip.
Zakimi Castle Ruins
Zakimi Castle is another Chuzen era castle built at the same time as Kasturen. It is smaller compared to Katsuren Castle Ruins, but the layout is distinct. We walked for a few minutes through to reach the castle, which was full of buzzing cicadas. At the top of the hill, is the castle ruins surrounded by walls with a main entrance. Once we stepped in, it felt like a different world as the stone walls were so high.
The interior is a bit bare, with small pockets and corners to explore. Compared to the first castle, this one has a more flowy wall shape with a rounded layout. We were also able to stand on a portion of the castle wall. You don’t need a lot of time to walk the ruins, it only takes about 10 minutes. Regardless, I preferred Zakimi Castle Ruins because it felt open and I enjoyed the layout, and beautiful walls. It felt natural in the landscape, and not as much of a tourist attraction, since the castle ruins are in the woods with nothing else nearby.
Mihama American Village
The American Village is a large outdoor shopping complex in Chatan. It’s located near the largest military base on the island so there is a lot of American influence in the area. It is not so much a real American town, but more of a fancy shopping center you would find on a pier. This was our second visit to the American Village, as we didn’t get to everything on the first day. Initially, we thought we wouldn’t enjoy the American Village, but it was really nice and we were happy to come back.
Blue Seal Depot Island Seaside
Our first stop was the most important: ice cream. They have 3 Blue Seals in the village, and we went to the Depot Island branch the day before. This time, we visited the Seaside location because it has a great view of the pier from the upper level patio. The area is very open and spacious, making it a great space to relax.
Pork Tamago Onigiri Honten
Located right below Blue Seal is Pork Tamago Onigiri Honten. This Okinawan onigiri shop sells onigiri, sides, and soups. Everything is made to order, so the wait can be a bit long, but it was worth it! We tried ordered goya tempura (bitter melon), and deep fried tofu & abura miso. These are both Okinawan variations of this classic Japanese snack.
This might be an unpopular opinion, but I really enjoyed the goya tempura. I like the bitterness of the melon as it balanced out the saltiness of the spam. I don’t think I would order the goya by itself, but it was great with all the other ingredients. The deep fried tofu was very crunchy and it was covered in miso sauce which was a little bit messy. Michael enjoyed it a lot but it was so-so for me.
Final Thoughts
Even though it was a slow day, Okinawa definitely kept us busy with all the awesome spots we visited. There are a lot of big attractions on the island, but taking the time to slow down and visit the smaller areas was worth it. We loved how chill the day felt, even with all the driving and climbing around.
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