Traveling in Almaty: Tips and Highlights
How to Get Around
Thankfully, it’s not too hard to navigate Almaty. The city is not too large, and has a very nice subway system. While there is only one subway line, we found it had stops near many of our destinations. The stations are very well built with interesting architecture making them an attraction all on their own.
In case you can’t get to your destination by train, we highly recommend getting the Yandex Go app ahead of time. This is the primary ride-share app in Central Asia, and worked very well for us, with short waits, cheap prices, and good service.
Ascension Cathedral
Ascension Cathedral, also known as Zenkov Cathedral, is one of the tallest wooden Orthodox cathedrals in the world. It was originally built in the early 1900s, but over the years, earthquakes and other historical events have caused damage and closures. In 2020, it underwent a major reconstruction, and now it’s truly a sight to see. The cathedral is located in Panfilov Park and is hard to miss thanks to its bright exterior. The soft yellow walls with accents of blue and green make it really stand out.
We’ve visited many cathedrals before, but this was our first time seeing something so vibrant and grand. The inside is just as stunning as the outside, with windows covered in brightly colored stained glass. The attention to detail is incredible, because it is Russian Orthodox it was especially ornate. Every corner has something to admire, from the icons of the saints to the vibrant glasswork and soaring ceilings. We were in awe as we walked through.
Memorial of Glory
Just behind the Cathedral is the Memorial of Glory. This plaza features a large metal statue of soldiers bursting out of a rock and an eternally lit flame in the center. The monument commemorates the Soviet Union’s efforts during World War II. Each of the soldiers on the statue represents a Soviet state, and the flame is in honor of the fallen, having not gone out since being lit in 1975.
It is a beautiful area, full of somber energy. The statue is a lot larger than we had thought from the pictures and really dominates the space. Sadly, I’m pretty rusty on Soviet history, so I don’t know a lot about Kazakhstan’s contributions to the war, although it certainly seems like it meant a lot to their government to have this memorial erected.
Green Bazaar
The Green Bazaar is a massive public market in Almaty that sells pretty much anything you can think of. From meats and produce to furniture, crafts, and more. We decided to have our first taste of Kazakh food at the market’s restaurant on the second floor. We ordered lagman noodles, a dish from the Uyghur community that lives along the Kazakhstan-China border. And of course, we had to try plov, which was delicious as always. Although, we preferred the plov we had in Uzbekistan.
After eating, we went downstairs to shop for some snacks. The vendors are pretty vocal and eager to get you to visit their stalls. There are rows and rows of food options, and we naturally gravitated toward the one filled with candies, nuts, and dried fruit. I’d never seen anything like it in real life, it kind of looked like a video game. The vendor let us sample anything we wanted, and there were so many tasty treats. We ended up buying dried apricots, a sweet white chocolatey snack, and another dessert I couldn’t quite identify. When you’re shopping at the Green Bazaar, be prepared to bargain. As a foreigner, you will get up charged, so try your best to guess a fair price and haggle a little. It’s all part of the experience.
Flask Coffee
Flask Coffee is one of the few specialty coffee shops in Almaty. There are two locations, and we visited the one at Kurmangazy. As soon as you step through the door, you’re greeted by the smell of freshly brewed coffee and a warm, welcoming vibe from the staff. They spoke English well which was helpful, but honestly coffee nomenclature is pretty universal, so we would’ve figured it out either way.
Michael got his usual pourover, while I’m still on my iced strawberry matcha journey. I don’t know if the cows are just different in Central Asia, but I’ve really been enjoying milk-based drinks here. Michael absolutely loved his pourover, and for both of us, it was a solid ten out of ten experience.
Arbat Walking Street
If you’re interested in shopping in Almaty, check out Arbat Walking Street, also known as Zhibek Zholy Street. This shopping street runs from Abylaikhan Avenue to Furmanov. You’ll find plenty of stores with recognizable brands like Zara, but also some great local shops. On Arbat Street, you can see local artists displaying their paintings and even pick up an original piece from Kazakhstan.
There’s restaurants and street entertainment, and even buskers performing. Since we were on a tight schedule, we only walked up and down the street for a bit. As you walk, keep an eye out for the apple-themed street decor. Almaty literally means “father of apples”, since every apples we have today descend from a wild apple grown in the mountains of this region. Since it was winter, we really enjoyed the wintry decorations and the lively atmosphere. I can see why this would be a popular place to meet up or just hang out.
Kok Tobe Cable Car
If you want to see an amazing view of Almaty, take a ride up the Kok Tobe Cable Car. This cable car ride is about 6 minutes one way to the top of Kok Tobe Hill. The view from the cable car is stunning as you can see the hustle and bustle of the city cascading in the mountains. Getting out of the cable car, we arrived to Kok Tobe, a large amusement area overlooking the city and the mountains. It had the same feeling as if we were in a small ski village located on top of a mountain.
There was music, rides, and the Almaty Tower. It was off season since it was winter, so many things were closed for renovations, including the tower. When we visited, we were unable to enter the tower, although we don’t know if it was due to construction or not. Originally tourists were not allowed inside, however they have begun renovations to allow tourists inside. Sources are mixed on weather you’re allowed to go up or not, regardless it is a beautiful sight in person. Kok Tobe has rides, restaurants, and experiences, but I think it’s more popping in summer. We didn’t ride any rides as we just wanted to explore and see the views. You could probably spend an hour or two at the hill.
Republic Palace
As we were walking down from the cable car we saw bright lights, and since I like shiny things we followed them. Republic Palace is a concert hall that is next to Kok Tobe. It usually hosts events, concerts, festivals and more. Even though we didn’t go inside, the outside was very spectacular in winter. There was a small ice skating rink, Christmas/New Year decorations, and a little market with vendors. It really felt like the German styled Christmas markets. We were surprised at how many cute things there were to do in Almaty as we couldn’t find some of these events on English sites. We would love to visit again and maybe next time for a concert.
Holder Coffee
Holder Coffee is a small cozy coffee shop on the south side of the city. The food menu isn’t in English, but luckily the coffee menu was. I picked based off of pictures and the barista was very friendly to explain the drinks to me. It was super cold that night so I strayed away from my iced matcha and I got hot chocolate instead. Michael also wanted a cozy drink as well so he opted for a hot latte. They also offer breakfast, food, and pastries.
We wanted to eat light because of our dinner reservation so we ordered a Snickers cheesecake. Their cheesecake was so good with its chocolate crust and caramel and nutty topping. If their desserts and beverages are this good I can’t imagine how the food would be. We really enjoyed our time there as it really was a very calm environment and everything felt so relaxed.
Medeu
Medeu is the the world’s highest altitude ice rink, at over 1691 meters above sea level. The ice skating rink is open from Thursday till Sunday, and you can ice skate in the day or night from October to April. Medeu is a bit far from downtown, therefore we decided to take a taxi. We opted to do a two hour skate session so we arrived around 7pm and finished around 9pm.
Michael and I aren’t the best ice skaters but we had a blast. We leisurely skated around the rink which can take about 8 minutes. It’s a really huge rink! They have music and lights going on while you skate and if you get hungry no worries there are food trucks everywhere. It’s a really great place to be with family and friends. It’s the largest rink we’ve been to, so it doesn’t feel crowded and if you need a break just take a rest on the bleachers. Because we only had two hours, we decided to go hard and take as few breaks as possible. Our feet were so sore by the end, but it was worth it.
Ayul
Ayul is Kazakh neo nomad cuisine located near Medeu. We made a reservation in advance through email because this restaurant is usually popping. The vibe is immaculate, with dim lighting, traditional decorations, and candlit tables. We decided to order things that we usually can’t get in other places. We got baursak (puffy fried bread), marrow bones with lazjan and flatbread, lamb tongues with pomegranate and sweet onions, beshbarmak with smoked horsemeat brisket, lamb shank with qazy on bone and sweet onion, and for dessert we ordered White cholate apple mousse.
If you don’t have an adventurous pallet it’s okay as they have a lot to offer on their menu. The food was everything, it matched our palettes so well and we wished we could have ate more of the menu. We were too full but it’s definitely a must for next time. If you are spending time in Almaty, this is restaurant needs to be on your list. The staff is very friendly and explain your food to you and the history and origin behind it. They will also help you if you don’t know how to eat certain foods and if you need pictures they are happy to take them. Everything is perfect about this restaurant from interior, staff, and food.
Final Thoughts
Our time in Almaty was packed with new tastes, cozy cafés, stunning views, and unexpected little moments that made us fall in love with the city. From bargaining at the Green Bazaar, skating at Medeu, or trying lamb tongue for the first time. If you’re considering a trip, let this be your sign to book it. Almaty is an underrated city absolutely worth discovering.
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