Riyadh: A Guide to the City
Diriyah Ancient Village
First stop on our guide to Riyadh is the ancient history of the region itself. Located on the west edge or Riyadh is Diriyah Ancient Village. This village is a UNESCO site and one of the most popular spots in the cities vicinity. The ancient city was founded in 1446, and was a regional hub for hundreds of years. It is the historical home of the Saudis, and when the House of Saud founded their dynasty, it became the capital.
The Ottomans threw the Saudis into exile, and by 1818 the entire town moved to Riyadh, leaving the site mostly abandoned. Since then, the town has been resettled and heavily renovated by the Saudi government into a major tourist attraction in the city.
We arrived at the village not knowing what to expect. It took a while to drive and walk inside, but as soon as we made it in we realized it’s more of an amusement park than a museum. The area is huge, with lots of restaurants, cafes, stalls, shops, and even a carousel. You could spend a long time walking around the courtyard area without even going inside the village. But we were low on time so we went straight into the historical village to look around. There are plenty of streets that have been faithfully renovated and restored, with glimpses into the past through ancient crumbling walls.
It’s a very aesthetic place to just sit and wonder at the ancient history of the country. Here you can see the historic House of Saud, and several important historical streets and buildings. To be honest, it feels a little too manufactured, and doesn’t feel like a historical site. I would think the buildings were completely modern with no ancient heritage if I didn’t know. it’s still a very cool place to check out, but I would come more for the vibes than the history. If you want a more historically accurate and authentic experience, we highly recommend taking a day trip to Ushaiqer Ancient Village a few hours away.
Masmak Fortress
Masmak Fortress is a mudbrick structure in the heart of the old city. The fortress is surprisingly new, built in 1895, yet it is one of the oldest standing structures in Riyadh. This palace was the site of the battle of Riyadh, where the exiled Saudis fought and regained control of the country, leading to the modern nation of Saudi Arabia we have today. You wouldn’t expect it, but this relatively small and unassuming building is the center point of one of the most powerful countries in the modern age.
Nowadays, you can visit the palace grounds for free and enjoy the historic architecture. There is also a museum inside, although it was closed when we visited due to a festival being set up. Masmak Fortress isn’t that large, but it’s one of the most important buildings in Riyadh, and you’re likely to find yourself nearby at some point so it’s worth a stop.
Murabba Historical Palace
The Murabba Palace was constructed outside of the city to be the new home of the king in 1938. At the time, the king was still staying in Masmak Fortress, but the city had become crowded, and the new palace was built. It’s easy to see why, as Masmak is much smaller compared to the new palace. These days, Murabba palace is in a complex surrounded by the national museum, King Abdulaziz Darah Public Library, and the King Abdulaziz Grand Mosque. Ironically, it is now surrounded on all sides by high rises and skyscrapers, so escaping the crowded city didn’t last long.
Sadly, when we visited the Palace interior was being renovated so we couldn’t go inside. There is a beautiful courtyard with balconies and 16 rooms to explore. It was unfortunate how many places were closed while we were in Riyadh, but thankfully the surrounding grounds are still amazing to see. The exterior of the palace is very nice, and the museums are well worth visiting, with the king’s vintage car collection on full display, and lots of historical artifacts of the kingdom.
Kingdom Center Sky Bridge
The Sky Bridge is located inside Kingdom Mall offering the best views of Riyadh. It is possible to buy tickets in advance, but we just bought ours at the desk in the mall. After purchasing our tickets we had to take two elevators to get to the 99th floor. We knew we were up high when we felt the air pressure popping our ears. Arriving to the top, we walked down the long hallway and looked out the windows offering an amazing view of the city.
Being up high, I saw that Riyadh has a grid layout, and it is very clear that everything building has an intentional location. Walking through Riyadh sometimes I forgot we were in the middle of the desert. With their flashy buildings, green spaces, and endless sprawl, it’s easy to forget how barren the landscape is. With our bird’s eye view we could see the whole city is a sandy tan color, that disappears into the endless desert at the edge. It was truly interesting to see this modern city built in the desert.
Qasr Al Hokm Station
Riyadh opened their first metro line at the end of 2024 which is incredibly new. Michael loves taking public transportation and definitely wanted to ride the train. They have several different passes by days, as well as an annual pass. Since we wanted to try public transportation for some of our trip,/* we got the three days for 20 SAR (5.5 USD) per person. With brand new subway lines, that means the stops are all brand new as well. One of the most beautiful stops in Riyadh is Qasr Al Hokm Station.
Inside the station, there is a beautiful green house filled with various plants on the walls. As the green house is located in the ground, looking down from above looks like a spiral staircase covered with plants. The outside was also visually interesting with a giant reflective dome over the station. We visited quite a few stops on our visit, and this one was definitely worth coming to. This is also in the old city near Masmak palace and some other major attractions, so you can easily make the quick detour to explore.
Mama Noura
Mama Noura is a popular fast food franchise in Riyadh serving Middle Eastern food. We headed in the afternoon to try their famous shawarma wraps. The restaurant is very wide and open like a cafeteria, with different places to order each part of your meal. The manager saw we were a bit confused so he helped us out at the kiosk and gave great suggestions to what we should try, and we got hummus with flatbread and meat kebabs.
It was really good considering this is a fast food chain. We could tell it is liked by both locals and tourists as there were a variety of people from Arabs to Americans. In another section, you pick up fresh squeezed juices made with natural sugar and no additives, which really helped wash it down. If you’re in that area, it’s definitely a great spot to stop and grab a quick bite. It was the perfect fuel before our journey to the Edge of the World.
Najd Village
Najd Village, a Michelin Guide listed restaurant, known for serving authentic Saudi Arabian cuisine. From the moment we stepped inside, we were reminded of One Thousand and One Arabian Nights. The traditional yet modern interior was covered in vibrant carpets, colorful cushions, and sandstone walls. It felt foreign yet comforting at the same time. We were seated on the floor in a private dining room, giving it an authentic feel. We ordered the camel kabsa and vegetable sambosas. Kabsa is one of Saudi Arabia’s most iconic dishes and is traditionally eaten by hand.
While the rice was well cooked, I expected a more aromatic blend of spices, and the flavors were milder than anticipated. It was our first time trying camel, and we found it very enjoyable. The meat had a familiar flavor, similar to beef, but with a slightly gamey taste and firmer texture. The vegetable sambosas had a thin, crispy pastry filled with shredded vegetables, making for a pleasant appetizer. Although the ambiance and overall dining experience were memorable, I found the food didn’t really blow us away. Given the restaurant’s Michelin Guide recommendation, I expected bolder, more unique flavors. Overall, it was good but pretty mild, which would go on to inform the rest of our Saudi culinary journey.
Fawal Alhatem
Fawal Alhatem is a popular local breakfast spot in Riyadh that specializes in traditional fava bean dishes served with flatbread. We ordered two versions: one topped with oil and the other with ghee. We love trying breakfast dishes from around the world, so we were excited to add another country to our list. The fava beans are mashed into a creamy consistency and seasoned with cumin, salt, and oil. Paired with the warm flatbread, it was one of the most flavorful meals we had during our time in Riyadh. The beans had a velvety texture, while the cumin and seasonings add some much needed spice. Located in the older part of Riyadh, the restaurant has a traditional feel. One thing to keep in mind is that they only accept cash, so it’s worth bringing some with you before visiting.
Kunafa Abul Haus
We have a sweet tooth, so we were excited to discover what Saudi Arabia had to offer for dessert. We stopped by Kunafa Abul Haus to try two classic treats, kunafa and basbousa. Kunafa is made with shredded kadayif pastry soaked in sugar syrup. We ordered a half-and-half version, with one side filled with cheese and the other without. I’m not usually a fan of cheesy desserts, although Michael really enjoyed that version. I preferred the classic kunafa, which was soft and sweet. However, my favorite dessert was the basbousa. Made with semolina, butter, almonds, and sugar syrup, it had a crispy texture with a deep nutty flavor. It was incredibly delicious, but we were absolutely stuffed and I could barely finish, even though I wanted more.
Mandi
Another popular dish in Saudi Arabia is mandi. It’s a combination of meat, rice, and aromatic spices, cooked in a tandoor oven. We ordered a massive portion of chicken mandi, and it was definitely a high point on our food journey. After placing our order downstairs, we headed to a private dining room to enjoy our meal. Everything was freshly prepared, and the chicken was very tender and juicy. The yellow rice was appropriately seasoned with spices, and adding a squeeze of fresh lemon along with bites of onion gave it a punch not a lot of Saudi food had in our opinion. This was easily our favorite meal in Saudi Arabia. The portion was enormous, and it finally hit all the notes we were hoping.
Laqaimat
The last item we wanted to try in Riyadh is laqaimat, an Arabic dessert. This dessert is a fried dough ball that is topped with syrups. They offered different flavors making it hard to choose, but they let us sample their original flavor. Once we had one, we knew that was the choice. They make laqaimat fresh, so we had to wait a bit. But the wait was worth it as it was steaming hot and the portion was huge. Typically, Laqaimat is meant to share with friends and family, so there were a lot of them. It tasted like a crunchy doughnut hole with a sweet sugary syrup making it our favorite dessert here. Michael wanted to eat them all, but he started to feel sick from consuming far too many sugary fried dough balls, so we had to throw the rest away before going into the airport. It was the perfect treat to say goodbye to Saudi Arabia.
Final Thoughts
We’re so glad we had a few days to get to know this unique city. Riyadh is so different from everywhere we’ve seen in Asia, and gave us a totally new perspective on the middle east. Great people, incredible buildings, and interesting food make this an unforgettable place to explore. Hopefully our guide to Riyadh inspires you to find something unexpected in this desert oasis.
